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Some relays will have multiple sets of inputs/outputs. Half the
contacts will be "made" with the relay de-energized, and the other half will be
"made" while the relay is actuated.
When troubleshooting relays you should find out what the
coil resistance should be. You might find this in the manual of the
component the relay goes to, or by researching the internet.
Now find the two contacts of the coil (usually contact numbers x1
and x2), and put your
meter leads on the contacts.
In the Ohms setting on your meter, you should read the resistance through the relay coil, if you get no
movement or infinity Ohms, then the relay is open (coil windings are
broken).
If you get zero Ohms or a lot less Ohms than the correct
amount, then the relay coil is shorted. Either way the relay would need replaced.
Car Relay
power relay
Another way to test a relay is by shaking it near your ear,
if you hear the internals noticeably rattling, then the relay is most likely bad and needs replaced.
Note: Some movement inside is common, when a relay is bad, it will sound like a
bunch of pebbles knocking around.
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